In a beauty industry worth more than $500 billion worldwide, something as routine as coloring hair is getting new attention. A November 2025 study found a worrying link between common hair products and breast cancer, showing that frequent users of chemical dyes have higher risk. The research pointed to an increased incidence of breast cancer, especially among Black women, with risk rising by as much as 45% for those using permanent dyes.
The National Institutes of Health previously conducted a study which concluded that permanent hair dye and straightening products contained numerous carcinogenic chemicals and that women who were exposed to these products, particularly those containing darker dyes that had higher concentrations of chemicals, had a 9% increased risk of developing breast cancer relative to other women.
Growing Evidence of Risks
These disclosures are part of ten years of research. A 2025 cohort study conducted by a team led by Dr. Schildroth showed associations with uterine fibroids in those using hair dye; ongoing investigations continue to implicate hormones disrupting chemicals such as 4- (P-aminophenyl)-2,5-dimethyl-1-(4-aminophenoxy) benzene sulfonamide) (PPD) and resorcinol as potentially causing conditions.
“Chemicals in certain hair dyes, particularly permanent or dark-colored ones, could interact with the body’s cells and hormones, potentially promoting cancerous changes,” warned a public health advisory shared widely on social media platforms. With millions dyeing their hair annually, surveys indicate over 75% of women in the U.S. have tried it at least once, these findings have sparked calls for stricter regulations and greater consumer awareness.
Many hair color products claim to be “ammonia-free,” but they often substitute ammonia with similar derivatives, such as ethanolamine or MEA (monoethanolamine), which can be even more allergenic than ammonia itself.
The Rise of Natural Alternatives
With the growing popularity of natural alternatives, henna is one of the oldest and most widely used types of dye. Henna comes from the Lawsonia inermis plant, and has been used to dye hair for thousands of years by multiple cultures including those in India and the Middle East.
Henna is different than synthetic hair colors because synthetic hair color uses ammonia and peroxide to penetrate the hair shaft, while henna does not penetrate. Henna works by coating the hair cuticle and binding to keratin to provide a semi-permanent colour. Henna does not strip the hair of its natural oil, it nourishes the hair by providing antioxidants, protein, and vitamin E.
Users of henna have said that it has made their hair feel stronger and smoother due to less breakage and helps to hold in moisture while strengthening the hair follicle against damage.
Benefits Beyond Color
In addition to its beauty enhancement, henna helps relieve scalp irritation and scalp oil (sebum) production. In addition, it calms scalp inflammation and may support melanocyte activity, reducing the chances of premature greying. For users who have sensitive skin, using henna is a safe option because it does not contain allergens, including PPD, which may trigger a reaction in an estimated 5% of users.
Studies suggest henna’s antimicrobial properties could even combat dandruff and infections, promoting overall hair health without the long-term risks tied to chemicals. “Henna gives curls a healthy, shiny appearance and can promote greater definition,” notes one hair care expert, emphasizing its compatibility with diverse textures.
Transformations speak volumes: many see vibrant reds, browns, or blacks emerge without the dullness or brittleness of conventional dyes.
Modern Takes on an Ancient Tradition
The Brazilian brand, Surya Brasil, is connecting the gap between older ways of doing business and modern approaches in today’s market that are constantly changing. Surya Brasil was founded in 1995 by Clelia Cecilia Angelon and makes vegan henna creams with certified organic Brazilian and Indian ingredients like babassu oil, guarana, amla, henna, shikakai and others.
These formulations combine henna with amla, shikakai, indigo and Brazilian herbals. They promise coverage for grays while conditioning hair, aligning with a surge in demand for clean beauty; global natural cosmetics sales are projected to hit $50 billion by 2027.
“Henna is another herb that is considered to be the elixir for healthy hair, as it can provide much needed nutrients directly to the scalp that has been impacted heavily by using heat treatments, chemical based hair dyes and generally being careless,” says Clelia Cecilia Angelon, Founder & CEO of Surya Brasil.
Angelon, a proponent of Ayurvedic principles, advocates for ditching harsh ingredients. “One can opt for ready to use henna cream that comes with easy to apply applicator for a mess free experience. It can be used to color the hair instead of harsh chemical-based hair dyes and can also be used as a hair mask, to be used once in 20 days,” she explains.
Natural dyes have drawbacks. Henna brings out warm tones, but the end color depends on your starting shade: straight henna gives reddish hues, while adding indigo yields darker browns or even black.
Application can be time-intensive, requiring hours for development, and it may not fully cover stubborn grays on first try. Experts recommend patch tests, as rare sensitivities exist, though far less common than with synthetics.
“Ayurveda offers plentiful of natural, organic and vegan hair care solutions,” Angelon adds, urging a return to holistic routines. “Understandably, it is time to dig in to your granny’s treasure box to get healthy and shiny hair.”
Looking Ahead
As science probes deeper, with calls for more longitudinal studies on both chemical and natural options, consumers face a choice: vibrant locks at what cost?
For numerous individuals, henna is more than simply a coloring material; it symbolizes an increased opportunity for safe and effective self-expression. Health advocates are hopeful that both the current discussion and movement will encourage new innovations by incorporating efficacy along with scientific evidence of safety into the pursuit of beauty that does not require trade-offs.
